Meaning
LC (sometimes shown as LE or a leak icon) on a Samsung dishwasher means the leak sensor in the base pan detected moisture. The single most common trigger is not a real leak at all — it is condensation or a few trapped drops after a hot cycle setting off a very sensitive sensor. Start by unplugging the unit and drying out the base pan.
⚠ Safety first. This code is about water inside an appliance that runs on mains electricity. Unplug the dishwasher (or switch off its breaker) before you tilt it, reach underneath, or handle any hose. If there is standing water on the floor, do not stand in it while touching the unit. Never run the dishwasher again until you know where the water came from.
What the Samsung LC code means
Samsung dishwashers have a shallow tray (the base pan) under the tub with a float or moisture sensor sitting in it. When that sensor gets wet, the control assumes the tub is leaking and throws LC — short for “leak” or “leakage check” — then usually runs the drain pump to protect itself. The sensor is deliberately sensitive, so it also fires on harmless condensation from hot Sanitize or Auto cycles. Do not confuse LC with OC/oE (too much water inside the tub — an overfill/overflow), 4C/4E (not enough water coming in), or 5C/5E (water not draining out). LC specifically means water where it should not be: the base pan.
| Likelihood | Cause | What is happening |
|---|---|---|
| Most common | Condensation / false trip | Steam from a hot or Sanitize cycle drips into the base pan; the sensitive sensor reads it as a leak even though nothing is broken. |
| Common | Door gasket leak | The lower corners of the door seal let a small amount of water escape onto the pan during the wash. |
| Common | Loose or split hose / sump connection | A drain or circulation hose clamp, sump seal, or spray-arm feed is weeping water down into the pan. |
| Less common | Oversudsing or a new garbage disposal | Regular dish soap or too much detergent overflows; or a newly fitted disposal still has its knockout plug in, backing water up the drain. |
| Least common | Failed leak sensor or cracked tub/sump | The sensor itself is faulty or water-logged, or a hairline crack near the sump is leaking — the only genuinely serious cases. |
How to fix it, in order
- Unplug the dishwasher — or trip its breaker. Everything below is safer with power off.
- Look for real water — check the floor, the base cabinet, and the under-sink connections. A dry floor points strongly to a false trip.
- Check a new garbage disposal — if one was recently installed, confirm the knockout plug was removed; a blocked drain sends water back toward the dishwasher.
- Drain and dry the base pan — tilt the unit about 45° forward onto towels to let trapped water run out, then dry the pan and sensor.
- Inspect the seals — feel the lower door-gasket corners, spray-arm seals, and visible hose clamps for dampness.
- Rule out suds — use only dishwasher detergent (never dish soap) and the correct amount.
- Restore power — if the code clears and stays gone, it was condensation. If it returns immediately with a dry, dry pan, the sensor or a hidden leak is the culprit.
Parts that may be involved
- Base-pan leak sensor — the float/moisture sensor that triggers the code; replaced if it reads wet when the pan is dry.
- Door gasket — the tub/door seal; a common source of small real leaks at the bottom corners.
- Drain and circulation hoses / clamps — a weeping connection drips into the pan.
- Sump and sump gasket — the collection well under the tub; a cracked sump or bad seal leaks at the lowest point.
- Water inlet valve — if it seeps at the fill connection.
Difficulty and time
Clearing a false trip is a beginner job: 15–30 minutes with towels and no tools. Replacing a door gasket or a hose is intermediate — roughly 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools and pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter. Diagnosing a cracked tub or replacing the sensor is closer to an hour of careful work.
When to call a pro
- You see active, continuous water on the floor or a visible crack in the tub or sump.
- The code returns immediately every time even though the base pan is completely dry (sensor or control board).
- Water is reaching the electrical base or you smell burning.
- The dishwasher is hardwired and you are not comfortable disconnecting power at the panel.
FAQ
How do I reset the LC code on a Samsung dishwasher?
Unplug the dishwasher (or switch off its breaker) for 10–15 minutes and dry out the base pan. Once the sensor is dry, the code clears on power-up. If it comes back straight away, you have a real leak or a failed sensor, not a code that needs “resetting.”
Can the LC code be a false alarm?
Yes — frequently. Samsung’s base-pan sensor is sensitive enough that condensation from hot or Sanitize cycles can trigger LC with no actual leak. Dry the pan and watch whether it returns before assuming a part has failed.
Is LC the same as LE?
On most Samsung dishwashers LC, LE, and a leak icon all point to the same leak-sensor trip — the difference is just how a given model’s display renders it. The diagnosis and fix are identical.
Sources & verification
- Errbase — “Samsung Dishwasher LC Error Code”. Reference for the base-pan leak-sensor meaning and the condensation false-trip. Accessed 20 July 2026.
- Samsung US Community — “Troubleshooting Steps for Dishwasher LC Error”. Manufacturer community-support thread with the dry-out and leak-check steps. Accessed 20 July 2026.
- HowToFixIt — “How to Fix LC Error Code on Samsung Dishwasher”. Repair-authority guide separating LC from the OC/oE, 4C/4E and 5C/5E codes. Accessed 20 July 2026.
For more Samsung fault codes see the Samsung error code hub, browse every dishwasher code, or compare the leak-versus-supply logic with the Samsung washer 4C water-supply code and the Bosch dishwasher E15 leak code.