Whirlpool builds appliances under its own name and as Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and many Kenmore models, so these codes overlap widely across those brands. Most Whirlpool codes take the form F# E# — the F number is the failure system and the E number is the specific fault within it. Find your code below for what it means and the most likely cause; detailed fix pages are linked as they are published.
⚠ Safety first. Unplug the appliance (or switch off its breaker) before touching internal parts. Gas, high-voltage, and sealed refrigerant-system repairs must be done by a licensed professional. If you smell gas or see scorching, stop and call a technician.
Whirlpool washer codes
| Code | Meaning | Most likely cause |
|---|---|---|
| F21 / F20 | Long drain — water not leaving in time | Clogged drain pump filter, kinked or blocked drain hose |
| F5 E3 | Door won’t lock / unlock | Door lock assembly or its wiring |
| Sud / Sd | Excess suds detected | Too much detergent or non-HE detergent |
| F8 E1 (LF) | Long fill — not enough water | Water supply off, kinked inlet hose, inlet valve |
| F7 E1 | Motor speed sensor fault | Drive motor or its sensor |
Whirlpool dryer codes
| Code | Meaning | Most likely cause |
|---|---|---|
| F01 | Main electronic control board fault | Failed main control board (CCU) |
| PF | Power failure during a cycle | Interrupted power; restart the cycle |
| AF | Restricted airflow | Clogged lint filter or blocked vent |
Whirlpool dishwasher & oven codes
| Code | Appliance | Meaning / likely cause |
|---|---|---|
| F8 E4 | Dishwasher | Water fill / flow meter fault — supply, inlet valve, or flow meter |
| F2 E0 | Oven / range | Stuck or shorted keypad — control panel membrane |
| F3 E0 | Oven / range | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted |
| Cooling Off / “OFF” | Refrigerator | Demo / showroom mode is on — not a fault; disable in settings |
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